Day 10 - Exmoor to The Quantocks

Day 10 - Luxborough to Nether Stowey - Awakening to the beautiful surroundings and the lovely farmhouse of Wood Advent was quite special: everything felt like it belonged where it was somehow. Diana served us a full breakfast that would sustain us through the day and we were in the car, heading back to Luxborough to start walking by 9am. As we set off, John realised that he had followed my example of leaving things behind and had left his GPS navigation device which we would rely upon in days to come so had to call the farm who said they'd leave it at the Valiant Soldier pub in Roadwater for us - luckily we were heading back that way. The road seemed an awful lot easier and more pleasurable than last evening and it was a pleasant walk down the valley, named Druid's Coombe, through pine forests following a stream. The air was loud with bird song and at one point I stopped and watched a little warbler a few feet away on a small tree as he sang. As we passed through the pine forest, the sound became that of machines and chain saws as trees were being harvested and the wild flowers were fewer.

After a few miles, Roadwater came into view, a pretty little village huddled at the bottom of this deep valley and straddling the stream. We turned right and left the road, climbing steeply up though woods and fields to the top of the ridge then down again to Huish Barton which was made up of an unused but impressive set of stone industrial buildings. Unfortunanately there was no-one about so we couldn't ask about them. Our next village was Monksilver where we encountered a very polite man incongruously dressed in smart tweeds and a bowler hat riding a large horse. This is the costume of the local hunt which was to be active that day. As we walked up over the next hill the Quantock range was spread before us running southeast across our path. On the way, we had to cross a railway line which carried steam trains on leisure trips from Minehead and although we heard the whistle in the distance whilst we were walking, the tracks were deserted. We stopped for lunch at the pub in yet another bucolic village called Bicknoller, at the base of the Quantocks. On many days we just stop for 2 or 3 short breaks by the road side and have water and trail mix that we carry, but sometimes we find a pub that is open at the right time and enjoy a pint and a sandwich.

Half and hour later we were off again, uphill through the village then onto the ride that climbs Bicknoller Coombe. This was a good steady climb on a good path in lovely countryside so was actually rather enjoyable - we must be getting fitter. As I arrived at the summit, the Hunt appeared - about 20 horses and 2 landrovers - riding slowly by at the end of their chase. We saw the later in the car park with their quarry - a stag. We were treated to more lovely views of the countryside and back to the sea as we walked along the ridge in the calm air.

The day was completed with a long descent through Forestry Commission land then over the fields and stiles to Nether Stowey. We hadn't booked accommodation and had been told there would be plenty, but were surprised to find that the pub and a couple of B&Bs were full. However, at the third, The Old House, to our great relief, they had a room available. This was another gracious old home with large rooms and lots of atmosphere, and Ann and her husband Baron were very kind and also promised a donation.

We had supper at the pub where a number of the locals were playing chess, which has become a pass-time there.