No photos today as I've left my camera connector cable somewhere - possibly at last night's hotel. Either I'll get one tomorrow at Carlisle or hopefully someone will send it to me.... If you have found it, my email address is dgkennedy@alloverde.com
Day 29 - Sun May 3rd. Our normal routine is to have breakfast at 8am, or earlier if it can be done, then set off about 9am, finishing between 4 and 6 depending upon distance and difficulty and have a big dinner. However, today we were on the road at 6.30, glad to be escaping the awful pub in Kendal. It was cool with a NW breeze, but nice weather after a wet night. We headed north, through the village of Burneside then out through fields that were positively sparkling in the early morning sun and, being Sunday, there was almost nothing on the roads. Dinner had been quite substantial so we didn't miss breakfast, but had some snack reserves to keep us going. We hoped to reach the Haweswater Hotel (17 miles) at 1pm for a bit of lunch - a meal we normally skip.
The road gradually climbed, following the babbling River Swift through sheep farms. We stopped on the bridge of the charming hamlet of Garnett Bridge, watching the river rush down through rocks that it was carving into strange shapes and hollows. This road continued into Longsleddale, running for 7 miles between increasingly high dale sides before it petered out and became a rocky track. At this point, it became steeper and climbed hard, right by the tumbling stream, to the top of the dale at about 1,500 feet. There the path split, with the main branch going even more steeply up to Gatescarth Pass at nearly 2,000 feet. The views back down the dale were tremendous, and then we came over the saddle and the ground fell away to reveal a vista of mountains and the lake to the north. We were hit by a rain squall which came in on the cold northerly breeze, and for a while conditions were harder. However it passed quickly, to be replaced by a rainbow and sunshine as we dropped steeply down to Haweswater. We got to the hotel at 1:10, (where I saw a red squirrel and several chaffinches on the bird feeder), very hungry and enjoyed CUmberland sausages and mash. We felt we deserved it after 17 miles!
The northerly wind continued to push against us, but the sun shone as we got back on the road for the final 6 miles. The countryside changed quite dramatically from steep high fells to a rolling limestone farmland with outcrops, which will continue now until Carlisle. Our 'B&B' turned out to be more of a hotel, but was really good value for a very comfortable room and public areas: a total contrast to last night! I had a shower and did a lot of washing by hand before catching up with a little sleep. Malcolm, who runs Beckfoot with his family, runs guitar courses through the year, which was a total surprise - who knows, but I might end up back here one day helping out on one!
John's cough is quite bad so he decided to have an early night, but I had an engagement to play at The Mardale Inn. Malcolm took my by car down to Bampton village where I met Sebastian, the publican who had invited. It is a really super country pub that makes efforts to cater for locals and visitors so it has a great atmosphere, excellent food and beer and the people staying there seemed very happy. I was plied with beer and excellent food, and waited for the time to play, talking to various people and watching them try to knock 3-inch nails into a huge tree stump with the SHARP end of an axe - a local sport apparently. The pub was heaving with people, all talking loudly, so I was very concerned that I wouldn't be heard, however when I did start, everyone clapped and joined in and we had a great time. I was very touched by the good-hearted people I met, their generosity and the ovation they gave me - Thanks to Sebastian and his friends at the Mardale Inn.
Day 29 - Sun May 3rd. Our normal routine is to have breakfast at 8am, or earlier if it can be done, then set off about 9am, finishing between 4 and 6 depending upon distance and difficulty and have a big dinner. However, today we were on the road at 6.30, glad to be escaping the awful pub in Kendal. It was cool with a NW breeze, but nice weather after a wet night. We headed north, through the village of Burneside then out through fields that were positively sparkling in the early morning sun and, being Sunday, there was almost nothing on the roads. Dinner had been quite substantial so we didn't miss breakfast, but had some snack reserves to keep us going. We hoped to reach the Haweswater Hotel (17 miles) at 1pm for a bit of lunch - a meal we normally skip.
The road gradually climbed, following the babbling River Swift through sheep farms. We stopped on the bridge of the charming hamlet of Garnett Bridge, watching the river rush down through rocks that it was carving into strange shapes and hollows. This road continued into Longsleddale, running for 7 miles between increasingly high dale sides before it petered out and became a rocky track. At this point, it became steeper and climbed hard, right by the tumbling stream, to the top of the dale at about 1,500 feet. There the path split, with the main branch going even more steeply up to Gatescarth Pass at nearly 2,000 feet. The views back down the dale were tremendous, and then we came over the saddle and the ground fell away to reveal a vista of mountains and the lake to the north. We were hit by a rain squall which came in on the cold northerly breeze, and for a while conditions were harder. However it passed quickly, to be replaced by a rainbow and sunshine as we dropped steeply down to Haweswater. We got to the hotel at 1:10, (where I saw a red squirrel and several chaffinches on the bird feeder), very hungry and enjoyed CUmberland sausages and mash. We felt we deserved it after 17 miles!
The northerly wind continued to push against us, but the sun shone as we got back on the road for the final 6 miles. The countryside changed quite dramatically from steep high fells to a rolling limestone farmland with outcrops, which will continue now until Carlisle. Our 'B&B' turned out to be more of a hotel, but was really good value for a very comfortable room and public areas: a total contrast to last night! I had a shower and did a lot of washing by hand before catching up with a little sleep. Malcolm, who runs Beckfoot with his family, runs guitar courses through the year, which was a total surprise - who knows, but I might end up back here one day helping out on one!
John's cough is quite bad so he decided to have an early night, but I had an engagement to play at The Mardale Inn. Malcolm took my by car down to Bampton village where I met Sebastian, the publican who had invited. It is a really super country pub that makes efforts to cater for locals and visitors so it has a great atmosphere, excellent food and beer and the people staying there seemed very happy. I was plied with beer and excellent food, and waited for the time to play, talking to various people and watching them try to knock 3-inch nails into a huge tree stump with the SHARP end of an axe - a local sport apparently. The pub was heaving with people, all talking loudly, so I was very concerned that I wouldn't be heard, however when I did start, everyone clapped and joined in and we had a great time. I was very touched by the good-hearted people I met, their generosity and the ovation they gave me - Thanks to Sebastian and his friends at the Mardale Inn.
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