The pictures from the TOP: On the moor above Abington; Coffee with Lee; power station where we crossed the Clyde; the Clyde walkway; New Lanark.
Day 35 - Saturday May 9th. This is my first wedding anniversary and it seems rather incredible that Lindsey and I will be reunited this afternoon, but wonderful. However, the morning did not look wonderful, infact, it looked a muckle drich (very bleak). The sky was leaden, rain was falling steadily and the trees were swaying in the wind. Another annoyance was that I had lost my iPhone charger - I thought I must have left it in the wall at the Moffatt hotel, but they said they couldn't find it, which is very odd and more annoying. I use it a lot to keep in touch with family and friends, and to post Twitters, find accommodation, pick up my emails and send them. It means I'll have to buy another in Glasgow. The trouble is that I have so many bits of wire and plastic for the technology I'm carrying that it is very difficult to ensure that I have everything when we leave a place. Must be more careful!
We set off in reasonable conditions - intermittent showers and a wind mostly at our backs. Even the Scots think it's terrible weather for May, but they do say that it will improve at from this afternoon. We continued up the Clyde valley for a while on the A73 Lanark road, more nice views of the windswept river winding into the grey distance. There were a couple of brave souls fishing. We turned north, climbing up onto the moors of the Douglas and Angus Estate where sedge and heather covered the boggy hillsides. We climbed steadily on a very quiet road up to nearly 1,200 feet, where the wind was cold and strong. We tried to take a break on a bridge looking down a wide valley to grey hills beyond but it started to rain. Soon after, we turned north, and the wind and rain really picked up, so it was a bit of a slog for a few miles up the little road until we reached a pine forest which lent some protection from the wind. The views were at times extensive, and had their drama, but we'd have seen a lot more had it been clear.
Borders farms and villages tend to be very well maintained and tidy, so it was surprising to come across some junk, fly tipping and a house surrounded by junk in this remote location: we wondered why someone bothers to move to a location like this only to trash their immediate vicinity.
We turned north again, descending towards Douglas Water, a tributory of the Clyde and a small town called Rigside which seems to be associated with an open-cast coal mine in the valley. Our route took us to the east of these, over attractive farmland, but the weather got worse: colder, with sleet among the heavy rain and more windy. We had done 12 miles and really needed a rest, particularly as John's leg was continuing to niggle. We crossed Douglas Water on a bridge, beside which was a property with a veranda and two comfortable looking chairs that were protected from the weather. I went and rang the doorbell, and I asked the lady if we could take a rest on her seats. She immediately said yes, and followed it up with an offer of a drink. We were very relieved to get out of the wind and rain for a bit and take the weight off our feet, then Lee MItchell came out to us with coffee, which warmed us and refreshed us considerably. The veranda we were on was within a holiday home that they let out over the summer, looking right over the river. She and her husband work in Hamilton and both love walking, in fact Ian was contemplating doing LEJOG.... one day.
We left there with lifted spirits, which were needed as the weather was by then atrocious. This was very unfortunate as the countryside is quite lovely with lots of variety and colour and good views. As the afternoon wore on, John's leg was really troubling him, but he kept going, albeit little gingerly. We had to descend to the Clyde and there was supposed to be a footpath across a farm which was not apparent. The farmer, who looked and sounded a bit like a better looking Rab C Nesbitt, said that it was there but probably too slippery in this weather, so we took the road. This joined the busy and twisty A72 which we had to follow carefully for about 600 yards before turning off steeply downhill to the little hydro-electric power station at the bottom. There was a bridge across the river, which was flowing very strongly, but I couldn't find a way out. I rang the bell on the main entrance, and a kind man said that we could get through by climbing up some steps then following the fence around to an 'unofficial' access point onto the Clyde Walkway. As we climbed, the rain stopped and the sun came out! The last two miles were walked in brilliant weather, with the sun shining through the beech trees that were just coming into leaf. Beech trees in the sun in springtime are one of natures wonders, with their smooth grey trunks and leaves that seem to fluoresce with a lovely warm green against a blue sky. The river, fields and bluebells were sparkling and we were surrounded at times by sheets of white wild garlic.
We finished a bit later than planned because of the weather and giving John's leg a chance, but Lindsey was waiting for us in Crossford and we were soon driving down through gorgeous scenery to New Lanark, where we were booked for the night. Lindsey and I were staying in the hotel, which is quite smart, whilst John had booked himself into the YHA as he was heading off again early in the morning (he wasn't too impressed by the experience!) New Lanark was essentially a cotton mill harnassing the power of the Clyde, built in the nineteenth century by industrialist David Dale. His son in law, Robert Owen, enlarged the place adding tenemants for the workers and a school, medical centre and other facilities. He was very enlightened and made it into a real mutually dependent community. The mill only closed in the late 60s, but the buildings are well designed and constructed in a really lovely location, surrounded by forest in the deep Clyde valley, next to some spectacular waterfalls. Therefore, the site was renovated and new, mostly leisure, uses found for the buildings which now include our accommodation for the weekend.
I was very happy to be with my wife, even if only for a short break. No walking tomorrow: hooray!
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